Hong Kong began in traffic and largely stayed there. Everything took roughly twice as long as it should have, which is worth knowing if you are trying to do this port in a single day.

The cruise terminal is built on the old runway at Kai Tak — the airport where the approach came in low over the rooftops of Kowloon and the pilots made a hard right turn at the last moment. It closed in 1998. It is towers now, with a stadium going up on the rest of it, and the property around it costs what property in Hong Kong costs.

At Aberdeen we went out on a sampan through the moored fishing boats and the floating village, with superyachts tied up fifty yards away. Then Stanley Market, which we would skip if we came again — it is souvenirs, and you can buy the same things anywhere.

The Peak Tram is the one to do. It has been hauling people up Victoria Peak since 1888, at an angle steep enough to make the towers on either side look like they are toppling over, and the view from the top on a clear, breezy afternoon is the reason people photograph this city.

Dinner back on board at Luminae, and then the harbour again from the deck, which after dark is a different thing entirely.

There was a show afterwards, and it was good — though by then we were running on fumes. A sea day tomorrow, which is exactly what this itinerary owes us.